South West Coast Path: St Austell to Mevagissey loop.

Last weekend I set out to see how fit I was and, more importantly, how much fitter I would need to be to complete the Cornwall Mighty Hike in August.

The weather was set to be good on Sunday and I didn't want to miss a good day, but I also didn't want to leave Julie with the kids for too long on her own. I wanted to make it a decent hike, it needed to test where I'm at fitness-wise and needed to test how my knee would hold up on an undulating stretch of coast path.

I decided to get up early so I could be back at a sensible time and not leave Julie with the boys on her own all day and although I'd set my alarm for 5:30am, I was actually out of the door and on my way by 5:50am as the car alarm went off at 4:30am and I couldn't get back to sleep!

The route

I didn't want to rely on anyone else to drop me off or pick me up from anywhere so it had to be a loop, and I didn't want to have to drive anywhere given the proximity of the coast path to our house. The route I planned was a loop from St. Austell, down the Pentewan Valley Trail to Heligan, down into Mevagissey and then back home along the coast path via Pentewan Beach, Porthpean and Charlestown.

A loop totalling about 25km and Strava estimated that it would take around about 5h 45m to complete, which is just the moving time; it would obviously take longer when you take into account stopping for food, photos etc.

I got out at a decent time so I figured I could try and be back for lunch time. I aimed to be home by about 1pm which would give me about 7hrs to complete it in total, and I actually got home sooner than anticipate.

I walked the trail in 6hrs 26min which that included stopping for lunch, faffing with cameras, drones and just generally taking in the scenery. Actual moving time 5hrs 31min, which is under the Strava prediction so I was happy with that.

But unlike running, it wasn't all about the time, pacing and getting to the end, it was about enjoying being out and about and enjoying the county that we are now living in.The weather did not let me down (I could not have picked a better morning to do this walk!) and the scenery certainly did not let me down.

Pentewan Valley

Once I had got off the roads, I picked up the Pentewan Valley Trail just outside St Austell and followed it for about 5km until I hit a footbridge, crossed the road and headed up through Tremayne estate and upward towards Heligan. Once at the top of the climb there was a nice, steady decent into

Annoyingly I had packed a few bits for breakfast as I assumed that a) it was early b) it was a Sunday and c) this is Cornwall that nothin would be open in Mevagissey until way after I had passed through, but to my surprise a cafe and one of the bakeries there was open when I got there at about 8:20! I guess it is kind of holiday season but still… I’ll remember for next time!

Polstreath and Pentewan

I headed up and out of Mevagissey on the coast path heading back north towards St Austell. I’ve never been up to this part of Mevagissey before and the short but steep climb up through the tiny (and I mean tiny) streets brings you out to the first stretch of proper coast path on this walk, and the views were spectacular.

This stretch of the path takes you over the top of Polstreath Beach, a little bay that you can only reach via the coastpath, with some stunning views out over Mevagissey Bay.

After another couple of kilometers (and much undulating) I reached Pentewan Beach so stopped for a bit of breakfast with a view out into St Austell Bay. At this point I think I was about 12km in and was still feeling pretty good. I was about half way and could see the route home laid out in front of me… and no joint pain whatsoever. I think the May Day Mile paid off.

A quick descent through some thankfully uninterested cows, past another stunning little cove and I was in Pentewan Village. We spend a fair bit of time here as its one of the closest beaches to home, so I quickly found the coast path and carried on my way… also it was too early for the pub, so that was another reason not to hang around!

Pentewan to Black Head

The next stretch was the most scenic on the walk. Absolutely stunning and probably accounts for the extra hour I took ontop of my moving time to complete this loop. Around every corner, at the top of every climb there was another photo opportunity, another reason to get the drone out…

I walked out to the end of Black Head which gave some amazing views over both St Austell Bay and Mevagissey Bay and after a quick stop I headed back to the path an on towards Porthpean, Charlestown and then home. Still feeling pretty good at this point and I think I was about 20km was starting to feel it a bit in my legs, but only really on the ascents and descents… so most of the terrain at this point!

Trenarren and Ropehaven Cliffs

From Black Head I followed the path back past the A L Rowse Monument and to Ropehaven Cliffs nature reserve and came out at the steepest ascent/descent of the walk so far… I’ll admit I might have sworn a little bit when I saw it! I was 22km in at this point and seeing the steps rise out of the valley like that in front of me... yeh.

But at the bottom of that descent was a beach that would rival any beach, anywhere in the world. I really should have stopped and ventured down to it, but wanted to crack on instead. Next time.

Porthpean, Charlestown and Home

After much swearing on the way up from the cove, stopped at the top to catch my breath and then followed the path around to Porthpean beach. Headed along the sea wall at Porthpean to a set of steep stairs (more stairs) and I was on the homeward stretch back to Charlestown.

I was tempted to stop in The Rashleigh once I hit Charlestown but at that point I think if I had stopped, I wouldn’t have gotten going again so decided I had cold beer in the fridge at home and to just plough on. We are only 20 mins walk from Charlestown so it wasn’t far.

Made it back, cracked a can of St. Austell Ales Proper Job and sat in the sun for a bit. 26km in total, so about 15km short of the target in August but I came out of this hike feeling that it was well within reach. I just need to do a few more hilly walks to get my shins and calves used to the terrain as they were the only parts of me aching the next day.

I captured the whole thing on my GoPro and iPhone too. Take a look.

I had one thought going through my head all the way around this walk: “This is home. I can WALK here”. It’s amazing that this is all so close to home now. Its safe to say there are zero regrets moving down here from Bristol.

It will be a few weeks before I can get out do to another long one like this due to life getting in the way, but I’m already eyeing up the next section of the coast path to attack.

More to come.